How to Design a Solitaire Engagement Ring

Two Methods:Choosing a DiamondChoosing the Setting

A solitaire engagement ring is typically a single stone golden or platinum ring, carrying a diamond. Solitaire is a French word, meaning “alone” or “single”. Solitaires are the most popular engagement rings. This wikiHow will show you how to design one.

Method 1
Choosing a Diamond

-- Diamonds are graded according to the 4Cs system, which stands for cut, clarity, color and carat. To make the right choice in your design it is necessary to understand these grading parameters.--

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    Look at the Cut and shape. Modern diamond cutting is based on the optical calculations and is aimed at creating maximum brilliance as a result of dispersion. Diamond cut consists of the following parts: crown, pavilion and possibly culet. Pavilion depth and angle, crown depth and angle should be perfectly combined to achieve the right refraction of light. To deep or too shallow cutting lets light out of the gem, while its design should reflect the light back and make the diamond sparkle. There are round and fancy shapes of diamonds: pear, marquise\ navette, emerald\octagonal, oval, princess, radiant, heart, trilliant, asscher, cushion, round. Round cut is classical and the most popular. To choose the best shape you should consider fingers length and form. Small and symmetric diamonds look better on small hands with slim fingers, while Marquise and Pear would best fit short fingers.
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    Really look at the Color. A diamond works like a prism dividing incoming light into the spectrum of colors. There is a scale grading diamonds colors from D to Z, with D meaning a perfectly colorless diamond, and Z - noticeable color. Colorless diamonds marked D – F allow more light to pass through them, thus, they are considered the best and are the most rare and expensive. So, the less color the diamond has the more sparkling flashes (called “fire”) it will produce. Yellow color in a diamond reduces the color spectrum like a filter. Diamonds marked Z are yellowish or even brownish.
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    Determine its number of Carats. Carat is a measure of diamonds weight, which is of course directly proportional to their size. To help you understand the proportions of carats and sizes there are multiple guide charts with relation tables available. They are adjusted for each diamond shape listed above.
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    Examine it for its Clarity. Diamond clarity is the quality describing the existence of internal and surface defects of stones. These peculiarities of texture are called inclusions and blemishes. Inclusions are structural imperfections, different in size, color, location, number and visibility. They can be whitish cracks or crystals of foreign materials. There is a clarity grade as well which allows assessing the presence of inclusions identified under ten times magnification.

Method 2
Choosing the Setting

The setting is the part of the ring holding the diamond in its place, which is attached to the band. Choosing the best setting for your design is almost as important as choosing the gemstone itself. Settings can be "pronged" or "invisible". The most popular prong settings are classical four-prong and six-prong styles. You can also find eight-prong and ten-prong settings, which help fix the diamond more firmly. Prong shape can vary according to design. You can choose from the following styles: four prong rings, six prong rings, eight and ten prong rings, double claw prong rings, heart prong rings, v-prong rings, fishtail prong rings. The last three are sophisticated and interesting options for those who are searching for something special. Split claw or double claw style, V-shaped or heart-shaped prongs can serve as a good extra protection for some of the fancy shape diamonds like marquise, pear or princess.

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    Choosing the Metal. Typically solitaire engagement rings come in 2 metals: gold and platinum. Gold solitaire rings can be made from yellow or white gold. White gold is more popular for engagement rings; it is formed by mixing yellow gold and other white alloys. Women most prefer platinum, because it is more pure, eternal and rare. Don’t forget to check the markings to be sure about the quality of the chosen metal.
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    Choosing the Band. The band is represented by the metal round circle, which sits around the finger. The right choice of the style and the size of the band is very important and predetermined by the hand and fingers size and shape, as well as the diamond’s characteristics. If the diamond is small and the fingers are small and slender wide and massive bands can never be a good option. Bands should fit well to the proportions. Bands can be straight or curved. Usually a curved band has the straight base and is curved at the top, where the diamond is fixed. Other shapes include: softly rounded, high domed/dome rounded, flat. A soft rounded shape is the most common and convenient for engagement rings.


  • Marquise, emerald, pear and oval cuts of the gemstones can visually elongate their look, which makes them appear larger, than they really are.
  • Narrow or massive band? A small diamond can appear larger with a narrower band. It compliments small and slender fingers. However, the thicker the band is, the more options there are for the diamond setting design.
  • Gold setting can spoil the look of the best quality diamond. Colorless diamonds may look slightly yellowish in the yellow-gold setting. So, it’s senseless to combine D to Z marked diamonds with yellow gold.
  • Diamonds in solitaire engagement rings are set high to allow their maximum exposure to light. If the bride is a very active person with dynamic lifestyle, it is worth considering other options to avoid excessive bumping and knocking or catching her clothes. It may be better to get a smaller diamond or think of a special construction design, where the gemstone won’t protrude too much.


  • Beware of diamonds with blue fluorescence. They underline the UV light spectrum and should be sold at a discount.
  • Diamonds should be accompanied with certification.
  • Only certified jewelers can provide you with adequate service.
  • Carat vs. value. Larger diamonds are rarer and, thus, more expensive. So, a composition of diamonds with the total weight of 1 carat should cost less, than a single 1-carat diamond.

Article Info

Categories: Jewelry and Watches